"Low light" is one of the most misleading phrases in plant retail. Most plants labelled "low light" need several hours of bright indirect light per day — which in a north-facing apartment with small windows means they'll slowly decline.
Genuinely low-light plants are rare. Here are 7 that actually survive in dim conditions, ranked by how dark they can tolerate.
What "low light" actually means
Before the list: light levels in homes are measured in foot-candles (fc) or lux. A bright south-facing window at noon hits 5,000–10,000 lux. A spot 3 metres from a window in a typical apartment: 50–150 lux. A windowless interior corner: 20–50 lux.
Most popular houseplants need at least 200 lux for 12 hours. The plants below can survive on 50–150 lux, though they'll grow slowly.
1. Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata)
Minimum light: ~50 lux — the lowest of any common houseplant
The snake plant is the genuine champion of dim interiors. It uses CAM photosynthesis, which makes it exceptionally efficient in low light. In a bathroom with a small frosted window, it will survive. In an office with only fluorescent overhead lighting, it will survive (slowly). Water every 2–6 weeks depending on conditions.
The caveat: it grows almost imperceptibly slowly in true low light, and it won't flower. If you want it to actually grow, it needs brighter conditions. But it won't die.
2. ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)
Minimum light: ~75 lux
Another near-indestructible low-light option. The ZZ's thick rhizomes store water and nutrients, making it tolerant of both dim conditions and irregular watering. It's slower than the snake plant to show stress and slower to recover from it.
One note: the ZZ is mildly toxic, so keep it out of reach of children and pets.
3. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
Minimum light: ~100 lux
Pothos is frequently recommended for low light — and unlike many such recommendations, it genuinely handles it. In low light, the variegation fades to solid green (the plant needs light to produce its yellow patterning), and growth slows significantly, but the plant stays alive and healthy.
The variegated cultivars (golden, marble queen, pearls and jade) all need more light to maintain their markings. For true low light, the solid green or neon pothos cultivars are better choices.
4. Heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
Minimum light: ~100 lux
Very similar to pothos in light tolerance, and often confused with it. The heartleaf philodendron has velvety, slightly more matte leaves compared to pothos's glossy surface. Same care rules: water when the top half of soil is dry, and it tolerates significant neglect.
Like pothos, it will produce smaller leaves and longer internodes in low light — a sign it's stretching toward brightness.
5. Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema commutatum, dark green varieties)
Minimum light: ~100–150 lux
The dark green varieties of aglaonema (Maria, Emerald Beauty, Tigress) are legitimately low-light tolerant. The caveat is important: the colourful pink and red varieties need significantly more light to maintain their colour. If you have a dark spot, choose a dark green cultivar specifically.
Aglaonemas also tolerate dry air, low humidity, and irregular watering — making them well-suited to offices and rooms with air conditioning.
6. Peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
Minimum light: ~150 lux
Peace lilies are frequently cited for low light tolerance, and they're one of the few flowering plants that actually deliver on this. In lower light conditions, they won't flower — but they'll maintain healthy foliage and continue growing. In brighter indirect light, they bloom reliably.
The peace lily also has a useful built-in watering indicator: it droops dramatically when it needs water, then recovers quickly once watered. This makes it hard to kill through neglect.
Caution: toxic to cats and dogs.
7. Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior)
Minimum light: ~50–75 lux
The cast iron plant earned its name. It tolerates deep shade (darker than almost any other houseplant), neglect, irregular watering, temperature variation, and dust. It was a Victorian parlour staple precisely because Victorian parlours had gas lighting and poor ventilation.
The trade-off is growth rate: it's very slow. Expect one or two new leaves per year in good conditions, almost nothing in very low light.
The ones that don't actually work in low light
For reference: pothos in dark corners fades and eventually dies; monsteras need more light than their reputation suggests (low light means no new growth and no fenestrations, not survival); ferns of any kind need bright indirect light and high humidity — they're not low-light plants.
If you're unsure how dark your space really is, hold a piece of white paper under the light source. If you can read standard print clearly without squinting, most of the plants above will survive. If the text is hard to read, you're down to snake plant and cast iron plant.
PlantWatch's care guide library has watering schedules, light requirements, and troubleshooting for all these species. If you're not sure which of these is right for your specific space, the care guides break down exactly what "low", "medium", and "high" light means in practical terms.